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Hello, I've never had issue with them "killing" my plants. They also never grew so tall (4-8 inches?) as another person described. So maybe different mushrooms.
I found one reference that might be a soil indicator from people who grow other types of mushrooms (they consider it a disease to other mushrooms) which suggests they may take hold in places/circumstances of high ammonia: "is favoured by ammonia, which might have been present in compost while peak heating. black inky liquid confirms the presence of ammonia in the compost." [ https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Amit-Maurya-2/publication/342313176_Important_Diseases_and_Pests_of_Mushroom/links/5eecbef4458515814a6ad7d6/Important-Diseases-and-Pests-of-Mushroom.pdf ]
In which case it could also be the heat and ammonia killing your plants and these mushrooms decomposing it also.?
In theory they might help remediate the ammonia over time if it is not so severe as to affect your plants???
Otherwise unfortunately I have not seen anything else regarding their benefits/detriments in our gardens. Or ecological role besides decomposer. Several on micoremediation of heavy metals for mining but I'm assuming you don't have that problem in your garden.
Definitely wrap the whole graft in Parafilm!
I've had nearly 100% success with apples, if the whole graft and scion was wrapped in Parafilm if I ignore one particular stick of scion wood which failed a lot and one topworked tree which probably got baked the way I bagged it.
Wrap the while scion in Parafilm then wrap it in paper top protect from the sun, that seems ideal, one layer of paper seems good, but I try to fold it up on the north side and top to keep the bugs out.
I don't know why you list ayers pear as a resistant pear. It has always given me more problems than any other I've planted including Bartlett. Even using the proper sprays and etc, nothing works.
I do NOT like the alarm clock thing about this, however I do see the very good possibility if this being used with a 4 or 6 in linear actuator.
If you put a hinge point on the lever where the shock/strut is (replaced by a linear actuator), the door will still move out of the way but takes up less room.
Hi! I'm traying to germinate some persimmon seeds... And thanks to this blog, now I know that they really take a lot of time... I didn't even know that a seed could take so long! And less knew about that some seeds could be even weeks soaking in water! I thought that after 48 hours they were ruined...
So I'm really wondering about what happened with this: "As I cleaned my first batch of persimmon seeds, I noticed that a layer of pulp continued to cling to the seed, so I'm experimenting with whether persimmon seeds also need a fermentation stage. I planted half of my seeds directly into pots of woodland soil, and am letting the other seeds soak in water for a week or two the way I do with tomato seeds. I'll report back this spring about which method gave me better germination rates."
Please let me know, which is the best method?
You can add Paula Red to the resistant list. Mild damage, but we get abundant harvests yearly with only minor lesions here and there.
We have abundant rust problems- killed our Golden Russet, doing a number on our Wealth apple- so we're a pretty good lab for resistance.