Mark,

Table saws are nice, but also quite dangerous, especially older ones without a guard over the blade or a brake. Yours seems to be missing the splittter behind the saw as well, which is really dangerous. And the table is very small.

If you are sawing without a splitter, and you inadvertently turn the wood a litte, it will be picked up be the teeth coming up at the back end of the saw. Depending on the power of the saw and the size of the piece, you can end up with a piece of wood flying in your face.

Do yourself a favor and make yourself a crosscut sled. That will make cutting wood much easier and safer. It will also give you nice straight cuts.

I guess I'm a bit spoiled these days, because below is what I get to use at work. This is what a modern professional saw looks like:

(not to make you jealous, but to illustrate safety features )

Adjusting the height and angle of the blade is done electrically. The sliding table on our machine is 3 meters long, and it has pneumatic cylinders (not shown here) to keep the pieces clamped.

Do you see the splitter behind the sawblade? And the black plastic extraction hood acturally has transparent sides to keep fingers out of the blade.

I've been working with tablesaws and other woodworking equipment for about 20 years now, and I've acquired a healthy respect for the risks involved. I started as a temp in a woodworking factory. You could easily recognize the temps there. They were the only people with all their fingers intact! Every one of the regular employees was missing at least a part of one finger. That's how dangerous those tools were. They had this big old bandsaw with 3 foot cast iron wheels that kept spinning for at least ten minutes after you switched off the power! Ditto for the 2 foot disc sander.

I have a saw just like the table saw you have and it works great for a low cost saw. Roland is correct, with out the kick back device a piece of wood can shoot back at you. I also use my saw with out the splitter, but most of my rips are long pieces of wood. The only problem I have found with the saw is that it is under powered for hard woods, otherwise great saw for the money.

That's why I only use the miter saw --- with its handy plastic covering, I'd be hard-pressed to cut myself. Mark's very, very careful though. I think he'll likely keep all of his fingers.

If I look at table and miter saws in DIY stores they all look and feel so flimsy and cheap. As if it's built to throw away after a couple of years.

Of course most of the woodworking equipment at work is at least 25 years old with quite solid cast iron frames. Most of those machines like the jointer and thickness planer should be able to outlast me, at least mechanically. I like the sturdyness of these old designs.

where can i purchase a starter switch for a pro-tech 10 inch bench saw

Frank --- Sorry we can't help you out --- we just have an old saw and haven't had to replace the switch. You might try googling the brand name and "switch."

Pro-Tech is apparently out of business, I don't think spare parts are available. I purchased one of these from Menards several years ago. I have cursed that purchase ever since then. As mentioned above the guard and splitter are missing, I still have mine but, I think I know why it's gone in your photo. The splitter is a very thin piece of sheet metal attached with one wing nut the guard is on top of the splitter, the entire assembly flops around making it impossible to make cuts past the splitter without wiggling it.

If you see one of the used I would pass on it, go with something like Craftsman or Delta.

Sears carries parts for these saws just google search it and sears will pop up!

HELP ! I was given a pro-tech model 4106 that is in desperate need of a new blade. The arbor wrenches are missing and it seems difficult to change without the proper wrenches. I have tried to find replacements online with no luck. Anyone know where I may locate a set or give me a useable alternative ?

Thanks in advance.

I was searching for parts for this tablesaw and came across this page. I'm looking for table extensions but with no luck. I have this saw bolted to a bench because it bounced around to much. Since I can't find extensions, if any one wants to sell theirs, I'd like to buy the table part, to bolt on mine as extensions. If anyone is interested email me.

Thanks, Roland Cook email: rcook2@neb.rr.com

The commenters who said that the Pro-Tech saw is dangerous are right. My Pro-Tech table saw has a blade guard that does not cover the entire gap around the blade. Yesterday, a piece of wood fell into the gap, twisted, and jammed me full force in the palm of my right hand. It bruised my right hand badly enough that I can't do much work, but I count myself lucky that all my bones are intact. If Pro-Tech owners like their saw, they could consider having a machine shop make a safer guard minus the 1-inch gap around the blade.

By the way, Sears Parts Direct sells parts for this saw.

You should make your own blade inserts

Do you know of a place that sells parts? Specifically I need the motor assembly for model. Sears told me they are no longer in stock or being manufactured. I can't find anything on secondary markets searches. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Sorry...we can not help with parts for this saw.

Once I got the safety guide back in place I only use it a few times a year at most.

I've had mine for over 20 years and don't have any complaints. Just replace the blade as needed and take care of the blade guard/kickback device and it should give you years of service. As far as parts like switches, you can use just about any after market switch that meets the specs of the original and fits in the opening. Just Google it.