There was also a series of numbers with a couple of letters after the L432.

That model number was 13RL815, which I'm sure means something within the secret drive belt society.

In general, there are two common types of V-belts. "A" size, and "B" size. The difference is in the width (you can measure across the outside of the belt, the wide part looking at a profile view of the V). You can often order them in any diameter you need... you measure around the outside diameter of the pulleys along the path the belt would take with a cloth tape. Don't ask how I know these things... :P Lets just say something by Massey Ferguson that has also been out of production since before I was born.

Then there are the flat belts... which I have yet to master.

FYI - You can often get a rough idea from here... If McMaster Carr doesn't sell it, there's a good chance it isn't made.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#drive-belts/=68y8lo

You may be old enough to remember the expression "Getting your tit caught in a wringer", but if not It can actually happen. While not exactly that body part, when I was a child I got my arm caught in a wringer and was above the elbow before the machine was turned off because the release for the rollers didn't work. Better to use a push stick than be laid up for faulty safeties. Don't get your fingers in the rollers, ever.

Shannon --- such good info! Now we'll know where to go if we need to find a strange belt!

Vester --- luckily, ours has a safety release that goes off when I try to put jeans through it. (Well, I don't think it's lucky when I have to wring the jeans by hand...) I'm still really careful, though.

Check the correct tension. To low a tension causes slipping, which will destroy the belt in short order. To high a tension increases the load on the bearings and pulleys which can damage them. Usually the motor is mounted on a slider or pivot so you can change the tension of the belt. Unfortunately methods to check the tension can vary per manufacturer. Typically it involves measuring how much force it takes to push in a belt a certain distance in between the pulleys. Download the Gates manual if you cannot find anything else and look for the belt that most closely matches the one you have. You can measure the force with a unster or a kitchen scale and a piece of wood if you don't have anything else available.

The numbers are the manufacturer's code. AFAIK they aren't standardized.

You should have commented before I did a celebratory load of laundry this morning! Luckily, the tension must have been okay because everything went smoothly.

In my mechanic days, I tested tension by pushing in the belt between pulleys with all the force my forefinger could muster. Between one half and one inch depression was ideal.

That sounds like my kind of test! Will do!

I picked up a hot point wringer washer for $25 that I plan on using at my 16'x20' tiny house, off grid. The agitator works fine, but the drain doesn't. Is there a belt for that? Also it seems to be leaking oil. What's that all about? Thanks.

schatzi --- The drain should be completely unpowered if your wringer washer is like ours. You lower the hose and water pours out. If that doesn't work, it means the drain is clogged and needs to be cleaned out.

I cleaned the drain. I even ran a snake through it, but couldn't find anything blocked. It still won't drain.

The Maytag I picked up for $5 works after putting a new cord on it, now I need an agitator. That's the only part missing.

NEED SUGGESTIONS ON WHERE TO GET A DRAIN HOSE FOR MY MONITOR WRINGER WASHER

Where can I find a agitator for a circular maytag wringer washer?

I am looking at buying a particular wringer washer. What is holding me back from committing to buy is the fact that the drain hose is busted. There are no others for sale near me. I was wondering how to find a replacement drain hose or how to drain it without one. Thanks, M. Greene

hey all, my 1946 ge wringer washer is throwing/leaking oil. any advice? how can i deduce if engine has enough oil? how do i stop the leak? coming from bottom of pipe running up to wringer and from motor too.

Hey all. I've got an old Maytag Wringer Washer, model # E2LS, I think. I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to get the agitator to release, so I can unclog it. It won't drain and we already took the hose off and cleaned it, so I think the clog must be below the agitator, but I need help with removing it. Any advice? Thanks, guys. Space

How to repair a washing machine wringer

When go to put clothes into the wringer there rollers pop open. How do I fix it?

I noticed a few comments about asking how to remove the agitator out of an old wringer washer. I've recently come in to possession of a Simplicity Wringer Washer and the agitator is in need of repair. Just wondering if anyone has been able to figure it out.

i can not get it to agitate it moves very little and you can hear the strain on the motor both the wringer and pump work what do you think the problem is?

I want to know how to fix the wringer the rollers will not turn the washer part works

Wanting to no also the ringers won't work